Creeping

I have a two year old german shorthair , she is command broke , and has had a lot of bird's shot over her. ( quail ) Made a mistake and have been hunting her on pheasant most of the season this year, now when we get on quail she will not hold bird's. Was thinking about taking her back up on the table , and with a low pin in the e-collar dropping a bird in front of her , if she creep's give a whoa command and a light hit and make her stand while the bird walk's around. Not sure if this will work?
Need Help
Larry

To Larry,

I have a shorthair that loves to creep in on birds (especially pen raised birds). To break him of this habit I had used the Tri-Tronics LR200 which has momentary low-medium-high and a continuous on button. I use a high level plug (4 or 5) and just "tick" him through each sequence on planted birds. I let him establish point first and watch for any sign of creeping in, if he creeps I hit the low button, if creeps more I use higher levels until he stops. Then, when I walk by him to flush the bird, I "tick" him with the low button and say "whoa" (to reinforce the whoa command). Then I flush the bird and "tick" again. I have someone else to shoot the bird, and after the shot I "tick" him again. If he breaks at the shot I will use the higher button immediately and "whoa" him and pick up the shot bird, not giving him the reward of the retrieve. If he stays, I return to the dog's side and pet him on the back (to reinforce patience and staying until sent by me). I touch his ear and say his name to release him for the retrieve. I repeat this on three birds per day, at least twice per week until I am confident that I do not need to use the e-collar.

Doing what you plan to do on the training table may turn the dog off of birds because there is no reward system and usually the table is for establishing the basics. We used the table to teach "whoa" then went to tethered birds and flutter them around on a weighted string attached to a pidgeon. The sequence is let the dog point the bird, with a pinch collar and a check cord. Then grab the check cord (unless the dog has a tendency to take out a bird you would lead the dog to point the bird holding on to the cord), and grab one end with one hand and loop the cord around the dog's belly and hold it together with the other hand. Having another person pick up the tethered bird and toss it away from the dog, you control the dog like a suitcase and when it break after the bird you lift the dog off the ground straight up in the air so the feet are just off the ground and place the dog back and say "whoa". Repeat throwing the bird towards the dog and away from the dog until you do not need to move the dog back. Then pick up the bird and walk to the dog and show him the bird (don't let him bite it). You can do this sequence a couple of times per week and add a shot with a blank gun to try to make the dog make a mistake, so you can correct it. We do this with all of the young dogs before we step up to the "tick" sequence. Some dogs never need to be "ticked" in the field because of the steadiness work we did early in their life. Hope this helps!

Steve
Krystal Creek Kennels

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For more information on Whoa Training, try:
Woah training early?
Unsteady in the field
Woah training
Woah Training II
Breaking after the fall
Whoa - how steady?
Steady to wing
Barrel training


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